Once upon a time in Paris David booked a piano concert, in a tiny church on the left bank, and a restaurant nearby.
Every beer has a special glass in Europe.
We enjoyed a bottle of Clos de la Roche from Chinon in the Loire.
A delicious Cabernet Franc from the Loire.
A Loire barge cruise is on my wish list. I’d be pretty happy with a different Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc every day. This Franc was delicious, not as earthy as in BC. On to the food.
It had been a long time since I’d had escargot. I question if it’s really about the snails or the baguette binge at the end to soak up all the butter. Either way we were happy.
Escargots
We’ve added a lot more fruits to our salads since we had this one. Simply delicious.
Burrata Fruit Avocado Shrimp
Almost every table was having Aligot. A runny mashed potato, cheese and cream dish that I’m going to learn to make. We’d never seen it before and had to ask what it was as they poured the stringy pile of hot deliciousness onto the plates. We wanted to order it for dessert but never had time.
Le Petite Périgourdine is a good choice for a reasonably priced, very French restaurant, on the left bank, near the Pantheon. Have the aligot.
One of the best in 2 weeks of incredible meals was at this Korean wine bar in Copenhagen. Right around the corner from the Radisson Royal Copenhagen we fully enjoyed the great wine program and the easy walk home after. Choose a bottle (or 2) from their retail wine store and have it served with the amazing food.
The menu is mostly made up of shareable snacks with a couple of larger plates to for 2, we did our best to eat through the menu.
The Ssamjang Guksu – cold noodle salad with spicy peanut sauce had us craving it for days, wishing we’d ordered it for dessert.
Cold Noodle Salad
Grilled Frigetello peppers were stuffed with shrimp and rice were great and the sauce was crazy delicious. We were spooning it up.
Grilled Frigitello Peppers
Another sauce we couldn’t get enough of was on the King Oyster Mushroom and rice cake skewers. I’d go again right now if I could.
King Oyster Mushrooms Rice Cake Pine Nuts
We went all the way and had the grilled mackerel for 2 and the Korean fried chicken for 2. Both were served with rice and side veggies. We wanted to add kimchi but they were sold out and the latest batch was a week off. Another reason to go back.
Grilled Mackerel & KFC with sides.
If you like spicy food that’s beyond extraordinary and you’re going to Copenhagen don’t miss Propaganda Kitchen.
Explora has one restaurant with a fee, Anthology, where they feature guest chefs from Michelin restaurants, in this case Emma Bengtsson, a Swedish chef from Aquavit restaurant in New York.
With the added cost and so many great options included I resisted. I’m also not a big fan of tasting menus. Thank goodness David insisted. It was a fabulous meal.
Gravlax with coffee infused mustard
The salmon amuse bouche had us finger licking the mustard off the plate.
Hamachi crudities, tomato vinaigrette, beets and cucumber Tuna carpaccio, fried capers, juniper crisp and lingonberry vinaigrette
Chef Emma substituted tuna for venison carpaccio for us.
Lobster bisque, fennel, pickled tomatoes and endive
Little lobster morsels under the fennel and endive. The bisque was added at the table.
Turbot with salt-baked onions, sea buckthorn hollandaise, bleak roe and marble potatoes
There were 3 options for the main course. I can’t comment on the beef but the turbot and mushroom were fantastic.
I had the turbot, the best ever. Bleak roe is traditionally from Sweden but this came from Canada and made us proud.
David had the mushroom so I only had a bite but I would love to have that dish. It was extraordinary.
Mushroom Barlotto with confit baby carrots, arugula and king oyster mushrooms
There was a pre dessert chocolate dish that disappeared before any picture.
Arctic Birds Nest with blueberry sorbet, goat cheese parfait and chocolate twigs
The sorbet and goat cheese parfait was presented as an egg coated in white chocolate. Not a bite left on either plate.
We added the wine pairing. Other than the first French Champagne all the wines were from the Marche area of Italy and included some grapes we weren’t familiar with but thought they were beautifully matched to the wines.
Our first night onboard and I had to satisfy a craving for Dover sole so off we went to Fil Rouge.
Crab Cake
I started with the Cajun spiced jumbo lump crab cake with roasted cherry tomato aioli. I believe I’ve perfected the crab cake at home but this was a winner.
Tuna Tataki
David had the tuna tataki tart and the combination of tuna on a crispy tomato olive tart was surprising and delicious.
Caesar Salad
Standard Caesar salad, the paprika croutons and excellent anchovy took it up a notch.
Crudities
Who knew crudities could be so good? David said he’d order it again.
Dover Sole
The Dover sole did not disappoint. Deboned table side, we added some French green beans and irresistible Franck’s mashed potatoes for a perfect meal.
Accompanied by a lovely Chenin Blanc from Domaine Mosny, Loire. Cheers!
On our way to Columbia we had a night in Miami and met friends for dinner at Baku Asian Fusion Bar by Shois. The crab, wakame and shrimp salad with ponzu sauce was outstanding.
Sushi Rolls
The sushi rolls were enormous and delicious.
Soft Shell Crab Rice Burger
A soft shell crab burger used 2 layers of crispy rice cake for a bun. You would never pick it up but it was good for sharing and the sauces were great.
We had a couple of other dishes but these were the standouts. An interesting restaurant with an “experience” room with special menu. Out of the way location but very good food.
Paris was much too busy this visit so we were particularly glad we’d planned a day trip to Reims.
The fantastic cathedral, Notre Dame de Reims, had been on my radar ever since reading Ken Follett’s The Pillars of the Earth. I wasn’t disappointed, the history and architecture are rich and storied, the stained glass rose windows magnificent. The modern windows, in particular the Champagne Workers and Mark Chagall’s three windows are exceptional.
Smiling Angel Notre Dame de Reims
Heading across the city we stopped at the Basilique Saint-Remi and happened on a band doing their sound checks for a performance that evening. We enjoyed the music and singing as we explored the church. It was one of those unexpected travel experiences we’ll always associate with Reims.
For lunch we found l’atelier restaurant pédagogique, an educational restaurant, La Sauvegarde de la Marne. The staff were very young and inexperienced but polite and efficient. The food was delicious and the prices excellent. See the menu below.
Rillettes aux Poissons Salade Océane
A visit to Cite du Champagne wouldn’t be complete without a tour and tasting at one of the many champagne houses.
We booked at Maison de Champagne Pommery.
Maison de Champagne PommeryMagnums over 100 years old that will never be opened.
The caves are huge and deep underground, with lots of art to see as you walk and hear the story of Pommery before the grand finale wine tasting.
Art in the chalk caves of Maison de PommeryPommery Caves
I recommend booking the slightly more expensive vintage tasting.
Vintage or Brut tasters are divided. Paris to Reims in under 50 minutes means you go fast.
Scarpetta Restaurants started in New York City and recently opened in Rome at the Ambasciatori Palace l, the former home of the US Embassy library and around the corner from the Embassy. It’s a natural fit and we loved the warm and welcoming service with fabulous food.
Ravioli Cacio E Pepe
Cacio E Pepe is a dish that’s hard to perfect, sometimes too salty, sometimes too peppery, and yet, I always want it. At Scarpetta the sauce was perfectly balanced and the pasta was elevated to these little bundles of cheese and charred leek. Beautifully presented at the table under a clear glass tagine top that kept them melt in your mouth hot.
We learned that Scarpetta means to sop up the sauce on your plate with bread. Our plates were very clean.
Even the Caesar salad was taken up a couple of notches with a soft egg and a cheese crisp.
Caesar Salad
There was a great bread basket. With these toppers it was hard to save some for scarpetta.
Olive Oil, Mascarpone Whip & Eggplant
We had a peek at Charlie’s rooftop bar. I’m betting it becomes a hot spot.
Good Time Charlie’sCharlie’s Rome Ambasciatori Hotel
I highly recommend Scarpetta Rome and the Intercontinental Rome Ambasciatori Palace.
When we noticed we were staying close to the Buddha Bar we decided to make a reservation and see how it was 15 years later. Back then it was the place to go for sushi in Paris, great food, great music and ultra cool atmosphere.
Today it’s still popular but experience is very different. They’ve added a lot more tables and the service was so fast it could only be to turn the table around asap.
I ordered a good red Burgundy and had to ask for a proper glass. I know I’m picky about glassware but a tiny cheap white wine glass just didn’t cut it. I was still given an industrial wine glass.
The sushi had to be already made to come to the table so quickly.
The black cod was delicious though.
It’s hard to satisfy a Vancouverite when it comes to sushi so there is that to take into account. Still I wouldn’t recommend Buddha Bar. It’s day has passed.
We’ve been going to Le Reminet for about 30 years and had at least 5 meals there, every one excellent. It’s a good location on the left bank near Notre Dame. Réservations recommended.
We’ve sat in this corner by the window several times. A perfect table.
I was intrigued by the fancy butter, good with the radishes.
Trout Gravlax with Radish & Timut Pepper Butter
Eggs seem to be show up in a lot of appetizers. You can count on David to order it.
Perfect Organic Egg with Candied Peppers
I recommend the wine pairing option, also good value . I’m better with a French wine list than 30 years ago but I’d never be able to choose these perfect pairings.
We both had the Sea Bream and it was excellent with a vegetable Tian and virgin sauce. Sounds sexy, tasted good. No idea what it was.
Grilled Sea Bream Fillet
More delicious wine
David had the tart.
Red Fruit Tart with Mascarpone Ice Cream
No surprise I ordered the cheese with more of the perfect French baguette.
Menu September 2023
We hope for a return visit. Paris was the busiest I’ve ever seen and a day trip to Reims was the perfect antidote.
Cathy’s Taste @TheTravelGroup 