Monthly Archives: October 2023

A Day in Champagne

Paris was much too busy this visit so we were particularly glad we’d planned a day trip to Reims.

The fantastic cathedral, Notre Dame de Reims, had been on my radar ever since reading Ken Follett’s The Pillars of the Earth. I wasn’t disappointed, the history and architecture are rich and storied, the stained glass rose windows magnificent. The modern windows, in particular the Champagne Workers and Mark Chagall’s three windows are exceptional.

Smiling Angel Notre Dame de Reims

Heading across the city we stopped at the Basilique Saint-Remi and happened on a band doing their sound checks for a performance that evening. We enjoyed the music and singing as we explored the church. It was one of those unexpected travel experiences we’ll always associate with Reims.

For lunch we found l’atelier restaurant pédagogique, an educational restaurant, La Sauvegarde de la Marne. The staff were very young and inexperienced but polite and efficient. The food was delicious and the prices excellent. See the menu below.

Rillettes aux Poissons
Salade Océane

A visit to Cite du Champagne wouldn’t be complete without a tour and tasting at one of the many champagne houses.

We booked at Maison de Champagne Pommery.

Maison de Champagne Pommery
Magnums over 100 years old that will never be opened.

The caves are huge and deep underground, with lots of art to see as you walk and hear the story of Pommery before the grand finale wine tasting.

Art in the chalk caves of Maison de Pommery
Pommery Caves

I recommend booking the slightly more expensive vintage tasting.

Vintage or Brut tasters are divided.
Paris to Reims in under 50 minutes means you go fast.

A Night on the Left Bank

Once upon a time in Paris David booked a piano concert, in a tiny church on the left bank, and a restaurant nearby.

Every beer has a special glass in Europe.

We enjoyed a bottle of Clos de la Roche from Chinon in the Loire.

A delicious Cabernet Franc from the Loire.

A Loire barge cruise is on my wish list. I’d be pretty happy with a different Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc every day. This Franc was delicious, not as earthy as in BC. On to the food.

It had been a long time since I’d had escargot. I question if it’s really about the snails or the baguette binge at the end to soak up all the butter. Either way we were happy.

Escargots

We’ve added a lot more fruits to our salads since we had this one. Simply delicious.

Burrata Fruit Avocado Shrimp

Almost every table was having Aligot. A runny mashed potato, cheese and cream dish that I’m going to learn to make. We’d never seen it before and had to ask what it was as they poured the stringy pile of hot deliciousness onto the plates. We wanted to order it for dessert but never had time.

Le Petite Périgourdine is a good choice for a reasonably priced, very French restaurant, on the left bank, near the Pantheon. Have the aligot.

Rome meets NYC at Scarpetta in the Ambasciatori Palace

Scarpetta Restaurants started in New York City and recently opened in Rome at the Ambasciatori Palace l, the former home of the US Embassy library and around the corner from the Embassy. It’s a natural fit and we loved the warm and welcoming service with fabulous food.

Ravioli Cacio E Pepe

Cacio E Pepe is a dish that’s hard to perfect, sometimes too salty, sometimes too peppery, and yet, I always want it. At Scarpetta the sauce was perfectly balanced and the pasta was elevated to these little bundles of cheese and charred leek. Beautifully presented at the table under a clear glass tagine top that kept them melt in your mouth hot.

We learned that Scarpetta means to sop up the sauce on your plate with bread. Our plates were very clean.

Even the Caesar salad was taken up a couple of notches with a soft egg and a cheese crisp.

Caesar Salad

There was a great bread basket. With these toppers it was hard to save some for scarpetta.

Olive Oil, Mascarpone Whip & Eggplant

We had a peek at Charlie’s rooftop bar. I’m betting it becomes a hot spot.

Good Time Charlie’s
Charlie’s Rome Ambasciatori Hotel

I highly recommend Scarpetta Rome and the Intercontinental Rome Ambasciatori Palace.

Georges at The Pompidou Loved It

The Pompidou gets better with each visit. I love the building though the exterior is showing it’s age and could use a good scrub.

After a couple of hours of great art we decided to try the rooftop restaurant.

David at Georges

Always great pommes frites in Paris. I liked how these were served. Tasty too.

Pomme Frites

David had the ridiculously expensive and equally delicious lobster salad.

Lobster Salad

I had the spinach and truffle salad. It proved that truffle doesn’t have to be overwhelming. I guess there’s more restraint with the good stuff.

Spinach Truffle Parmesan Salad
Bread, Olive Oil, Balsamic

The views are great.

Pompidou Selfie

The interior must be a fabulous event space.

Georges Interior

I’d love to see it full of beautiful people.

Georges Interior

We enjoyed our impulsive lunch at Georges at the Pompidou.

Buddha Bar Paris

Cathy at Buddha Bar

When we noticed we were staying close to the Buddha Bar we decided to make a reservation and see how it was 15 years later. Back then it was the place to go for sushi in Paris, great food, great music and ultra cool atmosphere.

Today it’s still popular but experience is very different. They’ve added a lot more tables and the service was so fast it could only be to turn the table around asap.

I ordered a good red Burgundy and had to ask for a proper glass. I know I’m picky about glassware but a tiny cheap white wine glass just didn’t cut it. I was still given an industrial wine glass.

The sushi had to be already made to come to the table so quickly.

The black cod was delicious though.

It’s hard to satisfy a Vancouverite when it comes to sushi so there is that to take into account. Still I wouldn’t recommend Buddha Bar. It’s day has passed.

Le Reminet Paris 30 Years 5 Meals

We’ve been going to Le Reminet for about 30 years and had at least 5 meals there, every one excellent. It’s a good location on the left bank near Notre Dame. Réservations recommended.

We’ve sat in this corner by the window several times. A perfect table.

I was intrigued by the fancy butter, good with the radishes.

Trout Gravlax with Radish & Timut Pepper
Butter

Eggs seem to be show up in a lot of appetizers. You can count on David to order it.

Perfect Organic Egg with Candied Peppers

I recommend the wine pairing option, also good value . I’m better with a French wine list than 30 years ago but I’d never be able to choose these perfect pairings.

We both had the Sea Bream and it was excellent with a vegetable Tian and virgin sauce. Sounds sexy, tasted good. No idea what it was.

Grilled Sea Bream Fillet

More delicious wine

David had the tart.

Red Fruit Tart with Mascarpone Ice Cream

No surprise I ordered the cheese with more of the perfect French baguette.

Menu September 2023

We hope for a return visit. Paris was the busiest I’ve ever seen and a day trip to Reims was the perfect antidote.

Dining on the Douro aboard Emerald Radiance

We boarded the Radiance on Saturday and were set for 7 days of food from the same team. There were 15 of us on a full ship of 110.

Breakfast and lunch are served buffet style. I only eat breakfast if someone will serve me a seafood Benedict so I have no opinion on breakfast. I heard the muesli was good.

Lunch was by far, the best meals on the ship.

The Portuguese crew gets to go all out with creativity, variety and local specialties. Great salads, breads, fabulous roasted potatoes, several hot entrees and delicious local cheeses you’ll never find at home. Local made quince jelly was a big hit with the cheeses.

Chef João Marinho was rightfully especially proud of a whole salmon baked in salt.

Chef João at BBQ

The dessert table was amazing. Daily house made ice-creams along with a changing array of features that the staff were clearly proud of. It was hard to walk by them empty handed.

The BBQ lunch on deck was a highlight. Grilled ribs, chicken and sardines were all excellent. They even converted some non sardine eaters. I think it was the best meal of the cruise.

Salads at BBQ on Deck
Salads at BBQ on Deck
Cheeses at BBQ on Deck

Dinner was hit and miss. Some trainees weren’t going to survive as restaurant stewards but others did their best to make up for that. It’s hard to serve 110 people 3 courses and get it right.

The breads and wines were always good. There were 3 choices of appetizers and entrees and desserts each night, as well as the standard salmon, steak or chicken. Sadly the cheese plate at night, my standard dessert, wasn’t as good as the lunch offerings.

For the Captain’s dinner the fish was a difficult Turbot dish and 2 out of three were very undercooked. Mine was okay but you’ll see below it was visually unappealing and those Brussels sprouts were cooked beyond repair.

Turbot at Captain’s Dinner

For the Gala dinner David said the polenta was the best he’d ever had. The eggplant on top was undercooked though.

Polenta onboard Emerald Radiance

For the most part we were happy with the food. Emerald is a value cruise line and it is definitely good value.

Ilicito at Editory Boulevard Hôtel

This restaurant surprised and delighted us. We went in cranky after a long day. The hotel hadn’t been open long, the whole team seemed ambitious and are trying to create something unique. We’d booked for 7pm but the restaurant didn’t open until 7:30, the menu was confusing and we were tired. Happily we were soon turned around with patience and good service. The restaurant is bright and fun and the food was delicious.

Ilicito The Story
Amuse-bouche Fish Tacos
Amuse-bouche Pork Sliders
House made buns with spiced butter disguised as a red pepper.
Marinated Salmon, Roasted Mango, Beetroot & Shrimp
Giant Shrimp & Squid – Citric Caviar, Seaweed & Miso
Brill, Fennel & Lemon Purée, Onion Sauce, Champagne Sauce and Caviar
Streak, Pasta, Mushrooms & Coconut Curry
Mushroom Flan Spiced Cake & Noori Ice Cream
Dirt, Sweet Potato & Carrot

Nothing is what it reads like on the menu but we were delighted with how it turned out.

Ilicito Menu

Porto The First 3 night.

We spent 4 nights in Porto before boarding the Emerald Radiance for a 7 night cruise on the Douro river. Every meal was good value and a couple were outstanding. I’ll save the best for my next post.

For our first night we wanted a restaurant within an easy walk of our hotel, the Editory Boulevard Aliados.

Quattro, an Italian restaurant had good reviews and didn’t disappoint.

Three tired but happy faces at Quattro Porto. A fine margarita for me.

A few cocktails, some breadsticks, olives and marinara before very good pasta and pizza.

The restaurant was Italian but the wine was Portuguese, from Alentejano and it was excellent. So good it called for a second bottle

Freixo at Quattro

We were winging it for our 2nd night but wanted Portuguese and I was ready for some bacalao.

Cornmeal crusted cod with spinach and potatoes. Delicious.

We found Vaccarum. Known for Francesinhas, Porto’s famous hot meat and tomato gravy sandwich. One of our group tried and loved it. The rest don’t eat much meat and I just wanted cod. They had good cod fritters but my cornmeal crusted cod with potatoes and spinach was the winner.

Reservations were in place for the next night at Elebe Centro. There are several Elebe locations, Centro was walking distance up a steep hill in a lively neighborhood.

The food was good but the wine experience was the big hit.

Mussels Elebe Centro
Prawns in spicy sauce Elebe Centro
Truffled arugula with eggs Elebe Centro
Seabass on potatoes with seafood cream Elebe Centro
Charcoal grilled bacalao with veggies and truffle purée.
Oupa Reserve house wine being decanted at Elebe Centro.

We had a great start to our trip and a long day tour to Braga and Guimaraes ahead thé next day so wound our way back down to our hotel passing this lively square on the way.

Porto Centro